Interview with Marianna Rosati, creative director of DROMe

Marianna Rosati, Creative Director of DROMe, told us about the training and professional path, which led her still very young to work in the family business in the field of research for new collections.

When did you discover your passion for fashion?

“I have been living in this environment since I was a child as my father was already working in the sector. Approaching fashion was a natural path for me. While growing up and having the opportunity to get in touch with the creative mechanisms, I fell even more in love with this world”.

What philosophy guides the creations of DROMe?

“DROMe was created with the idea of addressing women with a strong personality, who want to be elegantly seductive. It comes from an eclectic and intellectual world where music, art and photography melt together among the inspirations of the collection. Initially the project was based on the use of leather as primary material, transforming it into innovative shapes and silhouettes that made it look closer to fabrics such as silk or cotton. In the evolutionary process of the brand, I also included knitwear and fabric to strengthen the identity of the brand itself”.

What are the sources of inspiration from which you draw inspiration?

“Music and photography are two of the main sources of inspiration for my collections (one of my favourite movies is “Lost Highway” by David Lynch while I love the song “Wild is the Wind” in David Bowie’s version). I love to search for rare books and unknown photographers who tell fragments of life and fragments of personalities from the past. I love the 80s and very often take inspiration from this decade. Another very important point in my research phase (and which I miss a lot in this historical period) is the street: being able to travel and visit places and cities (London is one of the places I love most in the world), stop and observe people and grasping their beauty and peculiarities always gives me enormous energy and pushes me to think beyond simple clothes. I think of fashion as a means of conveying culture and knowledge”.

What contemporary or past designers inspire your work?

“Prada of the 90s has always been and still is a strong point of reference because I greatly admire her stylistic and intellectual power. In general I look to designers who made important the 80s and 90s, I am a great lover of Jil Sander and Helmut Lang. Obviously Margiela, on all, as a teacher of poetry and beauty”.

How important is instead technological innovation in your work?

“The constant pursuit of it is very important and trying to keep up with the times and new technologies is essential for every brand. Being able to offer a product that is always new and contemporary is part of our research”.

How is the brand’s next season structured?

“At the moment, as a result of the pandemic, we have reduced the number of items in the collection and the number of releases. We usually create a pre- and main collection. Now we are trying to concentrate everything in a single early release except to then create a small capsule dedicated to possible shows or presentations.
We must live by programming less than usual and be dynamic, ready to change course or make decisions depending on what happens in the world around us. The total uncertainty that characterises this historical moment is also reflected in our way of working which has had to adapt to these new timing and new market demands.
Ours is an independent brand that is facing huge challenges right now, with its own strength, great passion and willpower to reach the other side of the sea intact.
The way of conceiving collections has changed for us, both in terms of timing and content. In a way, we are obliged to carefully listen to the market. Preferring online sales, every thought is first imagined on a screen and then in three dimensions. Social and digital communication has grown even more importance than in the past, but above all creating a sense of community around a brand will be the key for the future”.

How do you deal with the sustainability theme?

“We have been constantly working on the sustainability project for years. The word itself encloses many levels and many aspects and the fashion sector is currently very rhetorical about it, it is necessary to understand how many actions really correspond to what has been said. If we talk about sustainability we must consider the various aspects that characterise it: traceability and transparency of the production process and respect for human rights, level of emissions, consumption of water and chemicals, materials and waste. In our small way we try, as we have always done, to make progressive production improvements without necessarily making a matter of marketing out of it.

Our goal is to continously improve in every way. Our production chain is fully traceable and transparent, in respect of all the people who work with us, and it is monitored in every single step, whether it is local Italian laboratories or companies we collaborate with outside Italy. We are closely working with our suppliers to look for materials with appropriate certifications related to saving water and chemicals. As for waste management, we exclusively produce on order, and try to avoid overproductions.
We have set up the DROMe UPCYCLED project to reuse the materials stored in our warehouse and give them new life with a dedicated, limited edition capsule.
The road that the fashion world must take to achieve true sustainability is still very long, but by taking responsible and strategic steps we can start changing things”.

Read this interview and much more on AFMAG #21